Lia Hao-y Kampuchea ..... Bye Bye Cambodia

Sorry it has been so long since my last update - I have been is some areas where internet connections are unavailable or prohibitively expensive.  Also, finding the time to organize photos and to write has been difficult, and I am actually writing this now from atop a double decker bus traveling up Laos.  Compared to the transport I have been using this bus is a real treat - it has movies playing and a hostess serving food and drinks.  This is in EXTREME comparison to the truck we were in the back of to get here - stuffed with people, and all sorts of dead, smelly fish.  We had friends in another truck, and theirs had a cows head, live chickens, and live snakes.

I have lots to say about Cambodia, some good, some bad, and I only now digesting it all (from afar).  When you travel you often hope for things to go well, but when they all do go well you are left with a very unadventurous feeling, and, in my case, not much to write about.  After Rachel arrived in Phnom Penh we quickly went to Siem Reap, where the famed Temples of Angkor are located.  The centerpiece is Angkor Wat, pictured right, and it is really impressive.  It is the largest single religious building in the world.  Yes, larger than the Great Mosque in Mecca, than Borobodor in Indonesia, than the Taj Mahal (not a religious buliding anyway), you get the point - really big.

In addition to being large it is very ornate with the hundreds of walls covered with statues (click for photo) and bass reliefs (click for photo).  Also, inside there were some religious ceremonies going on (click for photo).  See the additional photos below (and click to enlarge).

Angkor Wat
click to enlarge


Inside the temples were a constant cast of colorful and exotic characters, including this woman.

Around Angkor Wat were many other temples, each from a different time period and with different things to see.  Here is Ta Prom, which has several large trees overwhelming the structures.

Unlike the rest of Cambodia (which is a downright filthhole) the Temples of Angkor are kept immaculately clean by an army of cleaners.

Around and inside the temples were also some people dressed up in costumes, assumably resembling anchient Khmer royalties.

Fourty dollars (alot of money in Cambodia) gets you a three day pass for the temples.  The first day we took bicycles to the closer temples, which was quite exhausting as we got up by 5am in order to catch the sunrise.  Also, as it was so incredibly hot and our bikes were not exactly state of the art it was slow going.  Speaking of the heat, I have never sweated so much in my life and for a while my body was covered with what we think is a condition called "prickly heat".  I had many nasty, itchy rashes caused by excessive sweating and only after many days of using baby powder and controlling my sweating better did I look like a healthy human again.  On the second day we rented a tuk-tuk with a very nice driver for the day and got to the farther away temples.  On the third day we were too tired and all "templed out".  Plus I was sick a bit - I have been drinking lots of water in restaurants, eating salads, putting ice in every drink, and all of these are supposed "no-no's" with regard to food safety abroad.  We guessed that it was bacterial, and I have been cured by doing a series of Ciproflaxin.  See below for more photos from the temples (and click to enlarge).


Many temples in Cambodia have suffered theft and the Temples of Angkor are no exception.  It is such a shame.

Angkor Wat attracts all kinds of tourists, even monks taking photos of each other - and me taking photos of monks taking photos of monks.

The orange robes they wear are so beautiful.  The monks are very friendly, usually speak better English than others in the country, and love to have their photos taken.

In Angkor Thom there was a temple with hundreds of heads (each 2 meters tall) in the walls.  It was hypothesized that these were created during the time of a very vein ruler and the heads all bear his likeness.

Now, on to more serious matters - Sexual slavery, the trafficing of females, the Khmer Rouge, and Pol Pot ...  Yes, no discussion about Cambodia could possibly ignore the Khmer Rouge.  However, I want to avoid giving a history lesson that you could more easily read about in any one of the many books about the subject.  On that note, I have one to offer, named "First They Killed My Father" by Luong Ung (2001).  It is a touching masterpiece describing what it was really like to be an unlucky family during the 1975-1979 Khmer Rouge rule.  She really makes you understand what it was like when her father was dragged off, knowing he was going to have his head bashed in by a hammner, and what if was like to slowly watch a family member die a heinous death of starvation.  Yes, it is a hard read, but really should be required reading for just about anyone.  Another example of an ideology gone extremely wrong - but this one was particularly painful and horrible.  The amount of death (a quarter of the population) and suffering during this time was beyond our imagination.  We visited the "Killing Fields" (the place where executions took place) and the Toul Seng, aka S21 interrogation museum (the place where alot of torturing took place), and it left a significant impression (cick for photo).  At the S21 museum they had a posted sign of the "rules of interrogation" (click for photo).

The country will take decades to "recover" and this is for two reasons.  First, the genocide was particularly curel, prolongued, and recent, and second, the Khmer Rouge exterminated the entire educated class of the country.  For the latter, just wearing glasses or having soft hands were immediate death sentences.  This has, and will have, long lasting effects on the country.  Imagine all intellegence wiped out, and also, the mere thought of intellectualism, the strive for knowledge, erased from an entire country.  Well, I have to say, it shows.  In Cambodia they are (sorry) a bunch of dummies, and compared to their hated neighbors they truly are decades behind with regards to high tech industries, information technology, medicine, ... just about anything.  Talk about shooting yourself in the foot - the Khmer Rouge murdered all of the doctors in Cambodia, and then ordered farmers to treat the inevitable hoardes of sick and injured patients for the next four years.  These farmers had no training and absolutely no medicine supplies anyway.  Ouch!

I am currently reading another book, named "Sex Slaves - the Trafficing of Women in Asia", by Louise Brown (2000).  It is another must read and exactly reiterates (in my opinion) what I was trying to say (but I failed) about prostitution in my emails from Brazil.  Actually, the book has two main points of importance.  The first is that the notion that Asian prostitution is about westerners using prostitutes is completely bullocks (aka wrong).  Yes there are thousands of western men going with Asian prostitutes.  Nearly all of these women are freelancers, meaning they have chosen prostitution.  This absolutely pales in comparison to the HUNDREDS OF MILLIONS of Asian men who use prostitutes.  Basically, because there is no such thing as premarital sex and/or casual dating in Asia then there is no outlet for men, and they are forced to use prostitutes - there is simply no other way, as in Asia, still, the notion of women being virgins at marraige is universal.  And, (the second point) in direct contrast to high end, freelance prostitutes serving westerners, the prostitutes that serve plumbers, laborers, and every other type of common man in Asia have mostly been coerced into prostitution, or directly sold.  The entire Asian sex industry is completely hidden and considered immoral, even though nearly all Asian men have used prostitutes, and many use them regularly. (common numbers are 80-90% of Asian men have used a prostitute, and 40% regularly do so).  The toursit sex market is transparent and out in the open - which serves another purpose to distract everyone from the MUCH larger and MUCH GRAVER  problem of the rest of the Asian sex market.

I tried to make the point in previous emails that prostitution is universal and making it dirty and seedy only forces it deep underground, and the women suffer.  This is exaclty what is happening here.  The low cost, forced prostitutes that serve common Asian men are the ones sold into sexual slavery at an early age, and are trafficed all over Asia.  Again, as I said, the entire thing is hidden, though, and hard to find.  One night in Phnom Penh I wanted to get to the bottom of it, and late at night I was wandering around looking around.  I kept finding places named "guest house" which didn't look like guest houses I stay in.  Then I found a big one and I could see there was something going on inside - bunches of Asian guys were showing up in cars and on motor bikes.  However as I walked past the gate a guard stopped me and instructed me that I was not allowed in.  I took a guess and asked him if there was "boom boom" going on here and he said yes, but only Khmer-Khmer boom-boom, not Barang (foreigner)-Khmer boom boom.  I assured him that I was only going to have a look and that I wouildn't ruin any of the girls with my "Giant non-Asian penis" (more on this later), but he still wouldn't let me.  He did point me in the direction of another place I could go in and watch.

I found it and it was quite a sight.  Picture a large room with about 20 or 30 girls, in the 16-21 age range (as Cambodian girls are usually older than they look it would not surprise me if they were all over 18).  Outside the room were dozens of Asian men of varying ages, but mostly teenagers, all wth smiles on their faces like it was Christmas.  In turn they went to the front, told the "mamma san" which gurl they wanted and for five dollars (so I was told) they got some "boom boom".  Very amusing sight.

Alright, sorry to all the Asian men on the list, but I have to say ... here they have a real hangup about penis size - in that they all readily admit they, Cambodians atleast, have small penises which they assure me are tiny in comparison to my "Giant White Penis".  This is an additional reason that they don't want Foreigners with their women, and also the women complain that it is too painiful to be with a Baraing (White/Europeon).  I was talking to a Belgian girl who had sex with a Cambodian man, and before they got naked he pre-appologized for his small penis size.  Pretty funny.

Anyway, Besides temples I spend alot of my time going around food markets.  Every town or city has many of these morning, day, and night markets, selling everything you could imagine.  They are never boring, and very photogenic places.  They are also perfect for getting meals if you are a bit brave.  See the photos below and click to enlarge.



In Cambodia ice is delivered in blocks and then cut up, with a saw, into smaller pieces for sale.  Often I buy (for 200 Riel = 5 US cents) a block and break it up making a big picture of icy water.  After a long day sweating like a pig, it is heaven.

Food stalls are my favorite thing in the world.  They are scattered all over the country and provide quck, cheap, yummy, safe (contrary to popular belief) food.  I rarely eat in restaurants.

One thing wrong with traveling is that you cannot cook.  How wonderful would it be to buy a bunch of these vegetables and cook em up!

A common scene with many different types of food all in bowls.  You point to one, state how much money you want to spend and what you want with it, and you got dinner for about 50 - 75 US cents.

Another hobby in Cambodia was getting to speak the language.  It is a pretty hard language but I became functional (much more than any other traveller I met in Cambodia) and Cambodians were really amazed by my vocab.  The best was "Dah Lying" which means "I walk for fun".  The absolute hordes of taxi and mototaxi drivers that bother you about rides are pleasently amused when you say that.  I also leaned the words for skin "s'baik", black "kmao", and white "sor" and could talk all about how in the States we like black skin (or atleast I do).  They would hear none of this as in Cambodia they are about as skin racist as they could possibly be, and, across the board, white being good, and what they call black (not even dark at all) being bad.  This also illustrates that, as most Cambodians are darker than their hated neighbors, the Thais and Vietnamese, they probably have an additional complex about these things.

The only thing wrong with learning languages when you travel is that whenever you cross borders then all of your progress in learning a language is thrown out the window and you have to start all over again.  In this case, I crossed an imaginary line from Cambodia into Laos and Khmer was replaced by Lao, an unfortunately difficult tonal language.

Wish me luck,
Ed