Sabbai Dii, Laos Ngam Lie! ..... Hello, Laos is Beautiful

"Strange little country they have here", I find myself saying.  Laos, indeed, is a bit strange to me, at times difficult to explain.  Supposedly (by the numbers) it is an extremely poor country but at the same time it gives the impression of being much more well off than Cambodia.  The prices are higher (but often just because of agressive double pricing that communist countries are famous for), there are almost no beggars, and no one seems keen to try to make money.  In this last regard I have found tuk-tuk drivers, barbers, and drink venders demanding exhorbenent prices and let you walk away without even bargaining - in Cambodia they seemed much too hungry to let money just walk away.

Another strange thing here is that it appears to be an amazinly peaceful place, devoid of all crime - except that occasionally there have been horrific attacks by rebels and bandits.  Two years ago an entire busload of people were murdered by bandits, and, when two cyclists came upon the scene they were murdered too.  Several stretches of road are bad for "this kind of mischief" and this is probably why there is no night bus service in the country. 

Finally, even though Laos has been used and abused as a pawn or buffer zone between rivals Thailand and Vietnam, it doesn't seem to suffer the "Little Man's Complex" that Cambodia does, and Laotians seem a proud people.   But before I proceed, how about some photos.

Procession of monks receiving alms in the morning.  Each day they go around, essentially begging from the locals.
click to enlarge

click to enlarge, then "back" to return

A luckily placed canoe adds a nice element to a sunset photo.   Actually this wasn't just luck as I was running down the river to get this properly framed.

Here, for once, I was in the right place at the right time to get the sunlight coming into a cave and shining on a reclining Buddah.  To see how large the cave is look at the people just left of center.

Fishing by throwing a circular net.  I was lucky to anticipate this shot, put my camera on rapid fire mode and get a sequence of five photos for the one throw.

Southern Laos (and Northern Cambodia for that matter) has really beautiful sunsets on the Mekong River.

So, getting back to Laos.  Rachel and I crossed into the country by an obscure and remote border crossing, the kind that leads to border guard corruption.  Leaving Cambodia they asked for money but, as I was speaking Khmer pretty good, and they guy was pretty lame, we all said no and took our passports.  On the other side of the buffer zone, in order to get into Laos they were damanding money (only a dollar but it is the principle) and they were not budging.  We argued, took down names, photo'd them, threatened to report them, but they didn't care.  They were outside playing a Laotian game much like lawn bowling until we got tired (20 minutes) of waiting and paid up.  We told them that we hope this money buys them "some good boom boom".

Now in Laos we went to the "Four Thousand Islands" - well, actually only two of them.  In Southern Laos the Mekong River gets as wide as 14 kilometers and there is thousands (presumably four thousand) of islands, the larger ones inhabited.  We spent two nights on Don Det, sleeping in a shack (click to view) for two dollars a night.  We swam, drank beer, ate at little restaurants, relaxed in a hammock (click to view), and enjoyed the amazing sunsets (click to view).

Next we were off to Pakse (the ride I mentioned in the last email with all the fish in the cramped truck) and rented a motorbike in order to visit the Bolovan Plateau.  We saw a beautiful, tall waterfall (click to view), then had lunch in a small town with a good day market (click to view).  After that we went to another waterfall and swam in the bottom.  It was really amazing getting close to the water falling and the mist was causing really strong wind, and also an bright, whole circular double rainbow right in from of me.  Amazing place to be.

After Pakse we took an overnight bus up to the capitol city, Vientaine - not much more than a town, really.  We wasted a couple of days there (got there on a holiday so many places closed) and didn't get any of the chores we had hoped to (Philippine visa, Lao visa extension).  Actually, we did a walking tour of Vientaine and saw some wats with people worshiping inside, and we also talked to three colorful monks who were a blast.  At some point I brought out my photos and they were significantly impacted by the photos of me standing beside a topless African woman.

After that we were off to Vang Vien, a place of hedonism.  It is a small town that is filled with travellers enjoying themselves, doing alot of drugs and not much else.  Actually they are doing too other things - they go tubing (which we did also and was soooo much fun) down a river where every 200 meters is a ropeswing and people selling beer, blasting music.  The other thing travellers are definetly doing in Vang Vien is watching TV.  There is an abundance of TV restaurants where people (usually after eating a "Happy Pizza" if you know what I mean) drone/chill out and watch reruns of Friends and other sitcoms at all hours of the day.  But for us Vang Vien was really good for sporting activities.  See photos below.

click to enlarge

Vang Vien, like other places, had some very beautiful sunsets - if I could only eliminate that little bit of lens flare!

We did a nice trekking/kyaking two day package (24$ all inclusive for two days) and slept in this hut.  We visited a waterfall and swam but the guide was freezing (click to view cold guide in bottom of photo)

Vang Vien had many caves (the photo above of the sunlight on the reclining Buddah was also there) and this one pictured here was especially long.

One day we rented bikes and went all around the scenic countryside.



click on photo to enlarge
After Vang Vien we took a 8 hour bus ride up to Luang Prabang, where I am currently now (Rachel left today).  On the bus I used a stop to take a couple of lucky photos of some women - see photos to right and left.  Both of these photos are very grainy because I was shooting on ISO1600 due to the low light.

Luang Prabang is a great city (again, town really) and is the cultural center of Laos.  There are many things to see and experience.  There is a great night market with lots of venders selling all kinds of things to goofy tourists,  and, like Vang Vien, there are unlimited activities to do.

Photographically it is a good place also.  One morning I was up early and saw a progression of monks receiving alms (getting free food from begging) and it was a colorful sight.  See the topmost photo and the four below.

click on photo to enlarge

click to enlarge





Next, I will take a two day boat trip up the Mekong River (click to see photo of Mekong from Rachel's glasses) where I will do "The Gibbon Experience" - you stay for 3 days and two nights in tree houses (with, presumably, all kinds of Gibbon monkeys about) high up in the canopy and go between them using zip lines.  There are some very long ones (I think up to 400 meters long) and you can also go on hikes on the forest floor.  For the next two weeks I will be in Northern Laos, and, due to the remoteness, quite out of touch.

Wish me luck,
Ed